Washington Behind Closed Doors

“Washington is a city of southern efficiency and northern charm” – John Fitzgerald Kennedy (1917-1963), 35th President of the United States 1961-1963

This month I fulfilled a long standing ambition of visiting Washington D.C. Being a history buff (or nerd, depending on how you look at it) and news junkie, a visit to the political, historical and cultural capital of the United States was something I was looking forward to for a very long time. The added attractions of visiting D.C. over the St. Patrick’s Day weekend, coupled with having a smart new President in the White House, made it an irresistible proposition.

Jean and I arrived in to Washington's Dulles airport (I still haven't figured out if it was named after former CIA Chief Allen Dulles or his brother, former Secretary of State, John Foster Dulles) on Thursday evening, March 12th. Dulles is an ugly airport and about a 30 minute drive from downtown Washington. The other major Washington airport is Reagan National, which is much, much closer to town and the one into which, our cab driver reliably informed us, the politicians fly. He also told us that flying into Reagan typically costs a few hundred dollars more than flying into Dulles. Good to know if you ever plan on visiting Washington.On the trip from the airport to our hotel, our cab driver, an Indian man who previously lived in New Jersey, pointed out the landmarks and famous buildings that could be seen in the darkness...the Kennedy Center, the Watergate Hotel and finally the White House. Friday morning, March 13th, it was on to the sightseeing.

Across the street from our hotel is St. John's Church, often referred to as the "Church of the Presidents". By taking advantage of a recession time special offer and a complimentary upgrade through a friend of my wife's, Jean and I got a great deal at the famous Hay Adams Hotel on Lafayette Square, literally across the street from the White House. In fact, we were so close to Mr. Obama's house that if I was even a very average golfer a reasonable shot with a five iron would land my golf ball outside his front door. What makes staying at the Hay Adams even more exciting for us is that the President and his family stayed here for a couple of nights before officially moving into the White House. As you walk out the front door of the Hay Adams you are surrounded by history. If you look over your right shoulder, the magical and awe inspiring sight of the White House is fully visible in all its glory.

Regardless of the time of day or night there are always people to be seen congregating at the railings bordering the property; tourists snapping pictures (include us in that category), some lobby group or political action party protesting against something or regular Washingtonian's strolling past on their way home or to happy hour. Later in the morning, we walked around to the opposite side of the property and took some pictures of the south lawn of the White House and the place from where Marine One collects the President when he is being flown out to Andrews Air Force base to take a trip on Air Force One.

Immediately behind the south entrance to the White House, and within a few hundred yards of its railings, is the National Mall. Completely dominating the landscape is the Washington Monument. Built in honor of the country's first President, the sand colored obelisk was completed in 1884 and its stands 555 feet tall. Surrounded by a circle of 50 huge American flags, flying from flagpoles dozens of feet high, the monument is awe inspiring both in its construction and imagery. As I turned and looked over my right shoulder, images from a dozen different movies flashed across my mind. Off in the middle distance is the unmistakable and beautiful sight of the Lincoln Memorial, a beacon of democracy and symbol of all things good about America and her ideals. The famous reflecting pool that lies between the Lincoln Memorial and the World War II memorial was today a worksite where dozens of maintenance men are sweeping gravel, sand and dust across the broad expanse of the empty pool, no doubt getting it ready for the advent of spring. As you walk the length of the pool between the WWII memorial and the Lincoln Memorial you can't but think of Dr. King's famous march on Washington in August 1963 and the famous "I Have A Dream" speech that he gave from the steps of this wonderful monument. At the top of the steps you enter the body the Memorial itself and there in front of you sits President Lincoln is all his magestic glory, a face carved in humility, the father of black emancipation and savior of the Union at the time of its greatest danger.

The weather was perceptively warmer on Saturday. We spent half an hour taking some photographs at the railings at the front entrance of the White House. There was a time when traffic was allowed to pass directly in front of the White House, however, in the aftermath of the Oklahoma City bombing in April 1995, the Secret Service permanently closed off vehicular access in the name of presidential security. The air was crisp, the spirits were high and you got the distinct feeling that everyone was happy that we have an intelligent and cool President.

The distance between the Lincoln Memorial and the U.S. Capitol is approximately 2 miles. We walked along the grass and dust covered thoroughfare that leads you to the home of the country's political establishment, the U.S. Capitol buildings. The dome of the Capitol building completely dominates the skyline and it looks in real life just as impressive as it does on T.V. Immediately in front of the entrance to the property is a statue of former President, and leader of the Union forces during the Civil War, General Ulysses S. Grant. As you cross the road to the entrance to the Capitol proper is a memorial to President James Garfield, who served the second shortest presidential term in history, having been shot and killed 6 months and 15 days into his first term.

The first thing to say about the Capitol building is that it is huge. Construction originally began in 1793 and it held its first congressional session in November 1800. Building was finally completed in 1811 only for it to be gutted by fire by the British during the War of 1812. After taking a bunch of photographs we walked around the back of the property, heading towards the U.S. Supreme Court and the Thomas Jefferson buildings. It is only when you do a full 360 degree walking tour of the property do you get some idea of the scale and size of the building.We hadn't thought to pre book tickets for a tour but after a chance meeting with one of the security personnel we were lucky enough to get two tickets (free of charge) for a 1:30pm tour. After the obligatory security check we were ushered into the bowels of the U.S. Capitol building, the part set aside for tours.

The main chamber is called "Emancipation Hall" and it is here that you will find a couple of information counters and entrances to the various tours. In rooms off the main hall you will find a fully serviced restaurant, restrooms and a couple of gift shops.After an introductory 15 minute film on the history of the U.S. Capitol we were escorted by a tour guide straight into the Capitol rotunda. Our tour guide, a native of Virginia and about 60 years ago, greeted me in Irish and proceeded to welcome a number of people in our group in German, Italian, Spanish and Taiwanese. It turns out that he can greet visitors in 59 different languages. His knowledge of the Capitol was nothing short of remarkable, recalling dates, names and events off the top of his head. One interesting fact that he mentioned was that if you removed the concrete base of the Statue of Liberty in New York Harbor and brought Lady Liberty in to the Capitol rotunda, she would fit in a fully upright position with 18 feet to spare at the top! A fascinating tour of adjoining rooms and chambers followed.

Sunday was St. Patrick’s Day so we watched the parade as it weaved along Constitution Avenue and then hit a “few” Irish pubs for a few glasses of milk. All in all it was a thoroughly enjoyable visit and one that is highly recommended. If you want any tips on where to go email me at crotty_leonard@hotmail.com